Med In Heaven
Shopping in Nice: A Sensory Smorgasbord
There is a saying among Parisians, “Nice n’est pas a nous”, which
translates “Nice is not ours.” Far from an insult, those who do not
reside in the 5th largest city in France are merely paying homage to the
city’s distinctly Nicoise flavor, the result of a heritage and culture
greatly influenced by its geographic situation – the sea to the south,
the Alps to the north, Provencal to the west, and Italy twenty miles to
the east, with each shared border exerting its own unique influence on
Nice’s soul. Since it is such a singular, colorful location, it should
surprise no one visiting Nice
that it is home to some of the most delightful shopping experiences in
the world. Though there are countless possible sights to see and
activities to explore, any savvy shopper will likely want to spend the
majority of their stay in Nice
taking advantage of its vast array of high fashion boutiques, matchless
open air markets and unparalleled antiquing opportunities.
Those wishing to outfit themselves in high-end couture need look no further than the aptly named Rue Paradis, just off the Place Massena next to old Nice,
which serves as the central square and heart of the shopping district.
Rue Paradis is home to such boutiques as Bonpoint, which caters to
children and babies; Sonia Rykiel, for women and girls; Faconnable for
the men; and Armani, which serves up sumptuous clothing for both sexes.
Men and women who need pens that will stand up to a lifetime of check
writing can avail themselves of the services of the Mont Blanc staff,
while jetsetters in need of new luggage or handbags can peruse Louis
Vuitton. Anyone with a genuinely expansive pocketbook can then follow up
their tour of these shops with a quick trip around the corner onto
Avenue de Verdon, where they can visit Marina Rinaldi, and then purchase
a Cartier watch to better set off their new Hermes scarf. Similar
thrills can be found on other streets leading off the square, including
Rue Longchamp and Rue de la Liberte, both housing a number of the best
quality shops, and Rue de Massenet, a street containing the excellent
menswear shop, Claude Bonucci, and one of the French Riveria’s premiere
women’s boutiques, Pink.
If these stores prove a bit rich for a buyer’s tastes, or they are in need of a more diverse selection, they can trek to Avenue Jean Medecin, which runs from the Place Massena
up through the heart of the city, and contains the majority of Nice’s
main shopping opportunities. Though this avenue is also lined with
pricey boutiques, it is home to a number of department stores as well.
It might be advisable to begin at the Nouvelles Galleries, which is the
largest of the chain stores, particularly if the shopper is in need of
bilingual services or is a non-European seeking a place where making
“tax-free” purchases is easy and convenient. Another promising shopping
option is the Galleries Lafayette, a French chain
store which is also located on the avenue and contains its own
collection of designer clothes and goods.
If these two stores’ many departments do not offer enough variety, a relaxing stroll to Nice’s modern mall, the Nice Etoile,
should soon satisfy. The Nice Etoile is enjoying a new renaissance
after six months of redecorating and enhancement, including the addition
of a beautiful new atrium. The mall houses dozens of clothing stores
such as C&A, and also provides a number of top quality accessory
shops, in addition to home furnishing stores such as Habitat
and Maison du Monde. Shoppers should note that while the fashions at
Nice Etoile are quite reasonable, other items can still be fairly
expensive. Still, for those who prefer to drive to their shopping
destinations, Nice Etoile may remain the most attractive option of all,
as it offers ample parking.
Shoppers who wish to confine themselves to the market areas like the Cours Saleya or the old port,
but still desire a little haute couture shopping experience can visit
stores such as Agnes B and Saint James. Agnes B, located just around the
corner from the Cours Saleya, is a women’s
clothing shop with an ever changing cast of simple yet stylish clothes;
if men want to don Agnes B’s posh fashions, however, they must visit the
menswear branch on Rue Longchamp, near Galleries Lafayette.
Both men and women need look no further for smart and sporty casual
clothing than Saint James, which is located Ile de la Beaute just off
the old port.
No matter where they choose to spend their
money, shoppers should recognize that it is best to plan on shopping in
the morning or mid-afternoon, as most shops will be short-staffed or
closed entirely from noon to two p.m. for lunch. The good news is that
during this time, attention is turned to the equally important purchase
and consumption of Nice’s many fine foods and wines. Adventurous diners
may even opt to try one of Nice’s most (in)famous dishes, the pungent
but tasty stockfish, a stew made with dried cod. Whether one does decide
to take this plunge, or prefers less challenging fare like pissaladiere,
a pizza traditionally made with caramelized onions, olives and
anchovies, any diner would do well to secure a table at La Merenda. A
tiny bistro located in what was once a cellar/garage, La Merenda is
known for its top notch food and atmosphere; the restaurant has no
telephone, so all reservations must be made in person, does not take
checks or credit cards, and has a strict no smoking policy. Weary
shoppers wanting a decidedly Nicoise-style dining experience need look
no further than La Merenda.
Perhaps an even more colourful time is to
be found in the open air markets, which offer a seemingly endless
selection of fresh flowers, fruits, vegetables, fish, and other
delicacies. The most famous market is the aforementioned Cours Saleya,
which every Tuesday to Sunday serves up a bounty of the senses in the
form of stalls crammed with herbs, olives, and flowers – and that is
just the beginning of its offerings. The market, only one block from the
sea, is considered to have one of the best fruit, vegetable, and fish
selections in France, and sells its produce and seafood, along with its
flowers, until roughly noon each day. Nice is also
considered to produce some of the best olive oils in the world, and a
large number of oils can be sampled and purchased here. The Cours
Saleya’s Mondays are reserved for its antique market, which is famous
for the variety of offerings ranging from inexpensive antique postcards
to priceless china and silverware to a plethora of other items both
kitschy and chic, many of which may prove once-in-a-lifetime finds. A
shopper searching for something new to commemorate their stay can also
opt to attend the highly prized arts & crafts market, held each
evening.
Those who want to find their fortunes
elsewhere need only venture as far as the renowned fish market held
Tuesday through Sunday mornings at Place Saint-Francois, and a solid alternative to Cours Saleya
can be found at the market held each morning in the Malussena on the
Ave Jean Medicin. For those wanting to purchase quality fish, meat,
vegetables and fruit without having to deal with the tourist crowds,
there is always Cite de la Buffa, a covered market that is equally nice
but less frequented, as it is not often indicated in tourist guides. The
three entrances to this market are located on Boulevard Gambetta, two blocks from the Place Massena, beside the Casino grocery on Rue de Marechal Joffre, and on Rue de la Buffa.
Finally, any shopper in Nice should
strongly consider visiting the old port area, more formally known as the
Port of Lympia, which began construction in 1748 and is now, suitably,
home to Nice’s greatest antiquing opportunities. Although there are
interesting curiosities to be found at the vendors that make up the
Marche aux Puces (better known as the Flea Market) held Tuesday through
Sunday on Quai Lunel, the highest quality antique shops fan out west of
the port around Rue Emmanuel Philibert, each carrying items perhaps more
suited to the serious antique buyer. For those who would like to view a
great number of beautiful antiques without much walking, the Le Puces
de Nice will surely fit the bill, as it houses one of the port’s largest
merchandise collections under one roof.
Though it may not “belong” to the
Parisians, Nice’s one-of-a-kind history and culture have created an
atmosphere that stimulates the senses even as it threatens to empty the
wallet. Though the belle epoque or “beautiful age”
is said to have lasted only from 1880 to 1914, shoppers taking in the
trendy boutiques, mind-blowing markets and treasure troves of antiques
may beg to differ. Possessing as it does the ability to offer items for
nearly every imaginable taste or budget, Nice is truly a shopper’s
paradise by the sea.